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Chelsea may be nice, but it doesn’t immediately call to mind the gentle breeze and warm evenings of the Aegean coast – especially on the day we visit, when it’s freezing cold and raining sideways.

While they can’t control the weather, or West London’s geography, Bottarga have done everything they can to make themselves feel like a Greek haven in the middle of London. Ambient lighting, attentive service, and a space which is cosy without feeling cramped, all combine to make the restaurant a welcome respite from the November blues.

The newest offering from the Pachamama Group, Bottarga benefits from the experienced owners by hitting the ground running. Open for less than a month, there are none of the teething problems you’d expect with a new restaurant, and no shortage of punters queuing up to sample the menu, either.

And what a menu it is. Pita bread is elevated to high art here, especially when paired with a smoked aubergine dip or some of the thickest Tzatziki we’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. Sharing plates are varied in ingredients, but not in quality, with delicately laid out anchovies jostling with the glossy sheen of a bowl of saganaki tapioca bites. The former has a depth of flavour which incorporates the saltiness of the fish without being overpowering, while the latter is a masterclass in competing textures, with the sesame-studded outer shell crunching into a gooey semi-liquid centre.

Mains are an equally high-quality affair, although a warning from the waiter which is definitely worth passing on – mains do not come with sides or garnish – so order something from the veg section as well unless you want to be eating a slab of meat and nothing else. Having said that, the lamb belly is so good that you might not want anything else. Melt-in the middle, crunchy on top, and seasoned in smoky, Mediterranean spices, we could’ve eaten it three times over. Paired with grilled artichokes and a whipped xinotiri cheese, it was far and away the best thing we ate all evening, and that’s a very crowded field.

Leaving room for dessert is always tough in a good restaurant, but Bottarga make it even tougher by providing some of the most ludicrously generous portions we’ve seen in a while. The chocolate burnt cheesecake is both incredibly rich and an absolute doorstop of a slice. Order it between two and you’ll still struggle to clean the plate, despite how good it is. The hazelnut semifreddo is a slightly more modest affair, but still large and rich enough to make those final decadent mouthfuls a bit of a struggle. Despite rogue portion sizes, both are absolutely delicious, just don’t blame us if you over order.

Rarely have we seen a restaurant take a concept as ubiquitous as ‘Greek-inspired sharing plates’ and run with it so successfully, but Bottarga really is a must-visit. From the ambience to the attentive staff to the top-notch food: it’s a knock-out.

 For more information on Bottarga, see here. 383 King’s Rd, London SW10 0LP

Photo credit: Jessic Wang