Eat Here: Clutch Chicken, HoxtonBy Gemma Perlin

‘Gemma, you are such a cave woman’

Yes, as a child I was more likely to be found nursing a chicken carcass than a packet of smarties. Not much has changed. I like chicken, I really do. Not greasy fried chicken, plump succulent quality poultry. So you can imagine my glee, when Clutch opened in Hoxton.

Clutch Chicken Review: The Lowdown

Clutch, a chicken speciality restaurant, is off the beaten track, on a residential road in Hoxton. It’s a small cosy place, with communal tables, with absolutely no artifice or faux trendy vibes. Indeed the owner, a charming, former hairdresser said his restaurant is not about ‘hipster Shoreditch’ vibes. I spotted a few bespectacled beardy types in there, so I would counter that by saying their custom is still welcome.

Clutch Chicken Review: The Food

The menu is simple: three main courses, all chicken. It’s fried. But in groundnut oil, so it’s not fatty, greasy but moist, sweet, salty and spicy.We opted for ‘half a bucket’ of sweet soy and garlic chicken legs and sour and spicy chilli wings. On the side, the best salad I have ever had. Sure, salads are not really much to write home about, this had the tangiest lime dressing that was the perfect foil to the big flavours of the chicken. Fries and corn recommended too.

Don’t forget to get saucy. I’d recommend the homemade tomato clutchup… I normally am left awkwardly pining Heinz when confronted with alternative ketchup, but this more than lives up.

Clutch Chicken Review: Our Verdict

Come here for dinner or brunch on a Sunday before a visit to Columbia Market.

For more information on Clutch and to menu perve, see here.