Brunch Here: Oblix, The ShardBy Alicia Grimshaw
There are milestones that happen in life, and you can remember exactly where you were. I remember Barack Obama’s first speech as President, I was sat in my living room in my pyjamas watching in complete awe. I also fondly remember the time I ate my mum’s bread and butter pudding for the first time, ‘just try it’ she exclaimed, I did and I still remember that first mouthful to this day. It was at a family gathering, you know the type; emergency chairs, distant cousins you haven’t seen in years and more food than you can shake a stick at. This brings me to my first sweet potato pie experience, it was at Oblix, and it happened a few weeks ago. I’ve been dreaming about this pie every since – the nutty base, sweet potato-y goodness that tasted like heaven on earth.
There are restaurants that dominate conversation for weeks after, and let me tell you friends, once you visit Oblix, you’ll be talking about it for months to come. When it comes to brunch, these guys certainly know what they’re doing. Less with the chit chat, let’s talk brunch:
Oblix, found on the 32nd floor of The Shard, is world’s away from the tourist scenes found down below on the Southbank. Demure and sleek, there’s a sense of style here without it being inclusive and Instagram-led (sure, there’s people taking pictures, but who can blame them when the view’s this breathtaking). Before you reach the lounge and bar, you walk through an darkened corridor, before reaching your food heaven which boasts floor to ceiling windows and killer views over the capital.
With its open bar, cool furnishings and plush seating, it screams out Manhattan chic. It’s the sense of the communal that makes it feel American: shared space with strangers at the large table near the bar, booths, intimate lighting – well, it’s not very British is it?
There’s a feeling of intimacy created by the incredible service and the sexy decor. It actually has that busy bubbling atmosphere organically that so many restaurants attempt to mimic with music. And if you’re after music, the live band bang out tune after tune. There’s no annoying singing, just pleasant background music. Think an acoustic version of Elton John’s Tiny Dancer.
The weekend brunch menu makes even the most decadent of pancakes look sub-par. Recently launched, their brunch is a three course extravaganza. For starters, it’s a self-service situation at the deli counter. I’m talking about rich, creamy mouthfuls of burrata topped with pesto and served with the juiciest heirloom tomatoes. Cold cuts of various types of meats, homemade dips (try the baba ghanoush and thank me later), and a sterling bread selection. Carb load on focaccia, hefty cuts of sourdough, warm Sardinian flatbreads and crispy rolls.
This may be unlike any other ‘all you can eat’ situation I’ve ever been in. The food is really quite something, and you can’t knock the quality or the freshness, with the starters replenished regularly. The grilled aubergine with mint yoghurt and basil is three simple ingredients that come together so well on the plate, and the Asian slaw is full of big bold flavours, with every mouthful better than the last. The beetroot and goat’s curd salad is well balanced – the earthy beetroot and the intense, soft goat’s curd are the perfect pair.
And there’s homemade sausage rolls that I couldn’t help but sling a few on my plate; buttery, flaky pasty filled with proper sausage meat and served with a homemade tomato ketchup. If that’s not living, then quite frankly, I don’t know what is.
Don’t think you have to rush to your main – take all the time you need to digest your starter. Between the courses, take full advantage of the views across London as the glass windows provide a true glimpse of the beauty of London’s architectural skyline.
For main, you can order one dish from the menu plus a side. There’s your regular brunch classics such as avocado on grilled sourdough with poached eggs, Eggs Benedict, and omelettes, which have been given a tasty upgrade thanks to the addition of king crab.
But, when there’s a rib eye on offer, I just can’t refuse. The rib eye is one of the richest and beefiest cuts available, and the one at Oblix certainly lived up to that namesake. The steak was cooked to perfection, with the meat smooth and succulent. The rib eye was served with a homemade hash brown, that surprisingly for a fried potato number, tasted light and not overly oily. All of this beautiful food was topped with a fried duck egg, naturally.
If you’re a fish lover, you’re in luck. The lobster is a must. Don’t think you have to hack away at the meat, as the kitchen wizards take all the lobster meat out of the shell, cook it, and pop it back into the shell. These chaps certainly know how to rock good presentation. These meaty little lobster morsels are ludicrously good, and made all the more drool-worthy thanks to the verbena butter and lemon. Top tip: nab some sourdough from the deli counter and mop up the buttery sauce with the chewy crusts. Unbelievable.
The standout side dish has to be the truffled mac ‘n cheese, just the right size without it being obscene. The pasta has been delicately covered with bread crumbs for added crunch and the shaved truffle on top really sets the whole thing off. Everything tastes better with truffle, seriously.
My favourite course: desserts. And the desserts on offer at Oblix did not fail me. In fact, these sweet beauties made me head back to the dessert counter on a numerous occasions (3 if we’re counting). When there’s free flowing desserts, nothing comes between me and refined sugar. The cheesecake is a square of heaven, that almost disintegrates in your mouth, it’s that’s good. Both the chocolate cake and chocolate mousse are, in my mum’s own words ‘were as light as angel wings’. The sweet potato pie, as discussed earlier, was a real turn up for the books – spiced and nutty, this pie had us all pointing in bemusement ‘I can’t get over this, potato in a pie.’ It was almost Peter Kay sketch worthy.
Included in the three course brunch is a glass of champagne, which goes down far too easily (they were quaffed before the starters). The cocktail menu is a treasure trove of liquid delights. The last night in El Paso features don Julio Blanco tequila, lime, agave and pistachios. It’s fruity, without being on the sickly side. Refreshing and drinkable, it’s clear that the cocktail team here know what they’re doing. A Bellini skillfully blended is hard to beat, and at Oblix, they nail it. The knowledge staff are great with assisting both your food and drink choices. They’re not intrusive but are always on hand to pour and refill your glass.
Oblix: The Verdict
New York may be streets ahead when it comes to the battle of the brunch, but this three course bonanza shows the Yanks how it’s done properly. Three course brunches in the States are a regular occurrence, however the brunch at Oblix isn’t obscene and just pure gluttony, it’s actually a rather sophisticated and laid-back affair. At £65 per person, this is a brunch to keep up your sleeve when you’re celebrating something special; anniversary, birthday, graduation or maybe, just to celebrate the perfect runny yolk.
